
Avandra Field Guide · Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, France
10
nights
422
km driving
14
challenges
3,715
XP to earn
10
nights
422
km driving
14
challenges
3,715
XP to earn
Ten nights from Avignon to La Palud-sur-Verdon. It starts with the Palace of the Popes, the broken bridge and the Roman theatre at Orange, then moves to Arles for the amphitheatre and Van Gogh's town, and to the lagoons, white horses and flamingos of the Camargue. Saint-Rémy has Glanum and the asylum where Van Gogh painted, and Les Baux its ruined citadel and the Carrières de Lumières. In the Luberon come the ochre trails of Roussillon and Rustrel, the abbey of Sénanque and the perched villages of Bonnieux, Lacoste and Ménerbes. It ends at the Gorges du Verdon, with Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, the Lac de Sainte-Croix and the Sentier Blanc-Martel through the Grand Canyon.
Best from April to October
422 km of driving in total, about 8 hours over 10 days

Avignon: The Palace of the Popes and the Broken Bridge
Edited by Kenneth Killeen
Days 1–2 · 2 nights
19 km · 24 min from Orange


Base camp · 2 nights
Camping la Montagne
4.2
627 Google reviews
Editor's note
Two nights at Avignon. Visit the Palais des Papes, the largest Gothic palace in Europe, and walk out on the Pont Saint-Bénézet to the end of its four remaining arches. Across the Rhône, the ramparts of the Fort Saint-André at Villeneuve-lès-Avignon look back over the city to Mont Ventoux and the Alpilles. At Orange, find the 3.5m statue of Augustus in the Roman theatre's stage wall, climb to the top rows and walk to the triumphal arch. At Châteauneuf-du-Pape, walk up to the ruins of the popes' castle and taste the wine in a village cellar. The Festival d'Avignon fills the city every July.

Orange and Châteauneuf-du-Pape: The Roman Stage and the Popes' Vineyard
275 XPStand on the floor of the Roman theatre at Orange and find the colossal statue 3.5m high in the central niche of the stage wall - long called Augustus, though its head is a later replacement and some date the whole figure to the 2nd century - then climb to the top rows
14.4 km from camp
About 3 h

Avignon: The Palace of the Popes and the Broken Bridge
275 XPWalk the Palais des Papes and work out where Benedict XII's old palace — a fortress set straight on the rock of the Doms — is stitched to Clement VI's new one, then find Matteo Giovanetti's frescoes in the Grand Tinel, the Consistory hall and the chapel of Saint-Jean
10.3 km from camp
About 3.5 h
Walks from camp
Days 3–4 · 2 nights
108 km · 2 h 17 min from Avignon


Base camp · 2 nights
Camping la Chicanette
4.4
447 Google reviews
Editor's note
Two nights for Arles and the Camargue. In Arles, walk the tiers of the Roman amphitheatre, sit in the antique theatre and walk down the Alyscamps, where Van Gogh and Gauguin painted side by side in 1888, then see Frank Gehry's steel-clad tower at Luma Arles. In the delta, cycle the Digue à la Mer from Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer to the Gacholle lighthouse, look for flamingos on the Étang de Vaccarès at Méjanes and visit the Pont de Gau bird park at dusk. On the Rhône, visit King René's castle at Tarascon, then cross to the triangular keep at Beaucaire and the rock-cut abbey of Saint-Roman.

Tarascon and Beaucaire: King René's Castle, the Tarasque and the Troglodyte Abbey
250 XPIn the castle of Tarascon, find the 15th-century cell whose walls are covered in ships — medieval boats and war galleys scratched by Catalan sailors held prisoner by the king, alongside a chess board and verses from the Book of Job — then the apothecary of the hôpital Saint-Nicolas in the outbuildings, with over two hundred faience pots from Saint-Jean-du-Désert and Montpellier in its 18th-century panelling
23.2 km from camp
About 3.5 h

Arles: The Roman Arena, Van Gogh's Year and the Luma Tower
275 XPWalk the two tiers of galleries round the 25,000-seat amphitheatre and count the medieval defence towers still standing on it — the arena spent centuries as a walled village holding more than two hundred houses and two chapels, and the last of them were only pulled down on 30 December 1840
16.2 km from camp
About 3 h

Camargue Eco-Cycling Tour: The Digue à la Mer and the Réserve Nationale
340 XPRide the Digue à la Mer east out of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, with the sea on one side and the lagoons on the other, to the Phare de la Gacholle, built on the dyke itself in 1882, and call in at the information point the reserve's volunteers keep open at the foot of the lighthouse
27.1 km from camp
About 6 h

The Camargue: Pont de Gau, the Vaccarès and Saintes-Maries
275 XPWalk the seven kilometres of path across the 60 hectares of Pont de Gau towards sunset, when the flamingos, herons and egrets come in close, and find the wildlife care centre that takes in around 350 injured birds a year — the same place that took in starving flamingos when 90 per cent of the Camargue lagoons froze over in February 2012
20.6 km from camp
About 3 h
Walks from camp
Days 5–6 · 2 nights
103 km · 1 h 55 min from Arles and the Camargue


Base camp · 2 nights
Camping Monplaisir Provence
4.8
824 Google reviews
Editor's note
Two nights at Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. Walk the ruins of Glanum, the Gallo-Roman town at the foot of the Alpilles, and Les Antiques, its mausoleum and triumphal arch, then visit Saint-Paul-de-Mausole, the asylum where Van Gogh painted in 1889–90, and its garden. Paths climb from Saint-Rémy into the Alpilles towards Mont Gaussier. At Les Baux, walk the ruined citadel on its rock above the Val d'Enfer and go into the Carrières de Lumières, where paintings are projected onto the old quarry walls. In Fontvieille, see Daudet's windmill and taste Les Baux wine and olive oil at the Château d'Estoublon.

Les Baux and Fontvieille: The Citadel, the Moulin Saint-Pierre and the Carrières des Lumières
225 XPAt the Château d'Estoublon outside Fontvieille, taste the single-variety olive oils against one another — Grossane, Salonenque, Bouteillan, Béruguette and Picholine, all crushed at the estate's own mill under the AOP Vallée des Baux-de-Provence — then judge its AOP Les Baux de Provence wine from the organic vines on the south flank of the Alpilles against the oil of the same ground
6.4 km from camp
About 5 h

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence: Glanum and Van Gogh's Asylum
300 XPAcross the road from the Glanum ticket office, where you can see them for nothing, read the north face of the Julii cenotaph — SEX.M.L.IVLIEI.C.F.PARENTIBVS.SVEIS, three brothers to their forebears — and pick out the battle of Zela on three sides of its base and the boar hunt on the fourth; then on the municipal arch beside it find the seated woman on a heap of captured arms and the Gaulish prisoner with his hands tied behind his back
3.5 km from camp
About 5 h
Walks from camp
Days 7–8 · 2 nights
54 km · 1 h 10 min from Saint-Rémy and Les Baux


Base camp · 2 nights
Camping Les Chênes Blancs | Pausado
4.3
1,039 Google reviews
Editor's note
Two nights in the Luberon. At Roussillon, the 1.7km Grand Circuit of the Sentier des Ocres runs through old quarries in seventeen shades from pale yellow to blood red, and at Rustrel marked trails cross the cliffs and fairy chimneys of the Colorado Provençal. Walk the galleries of the Bruoux ochre mines at Gargas. Go down the valley north of Gordes to the abbey of Sénanque, still home to Cistercian monks. Climb to the old church at Bonnieux, walk up to the Marquis de Sade's castle at Lacoste and cross the Roman Pont Julien. At Lourmarin, find Albert Camus's grave. Apt's market is on Saturday mornings.

Roussillon, Sénanque and Gordes: Ochre, a Cistercian Abbey and the Lavender Museum
200 XPWalk the long circuit of the Sentier des Ocres at Roussillon, the 60-minute of the two waymarked loops through the abandoned quarries, and pick out the eroded pinnacles known as the aiguilles des fées standing above the ochre face called the chaussée des géants
4.4 km from camp
About 3.5 h

The Luberon Villages: Bonnieux, Lacoste, Ménerbes and the Pont Julien
250 XPClimb the stepped lanes of Bonnieux to the Vieille Église, listed since 1980, and find where the Romanesque work gives way to Gothic in the same building — then from the terrace outside pick out Lacoste on its own spur across the plain, mont Ventoux beyond it, and on the way back down the remains of the 12th-century towers and walls and the thirty-metre tour Philippe of the late 19th century
11.1 km from camp
About 6 h

Lourmarin and Cucuron: Serlio's Renaissance Wing, Camus's Grave and the Plane Trees of the Étang
200 XPIn the Renaissance wing at Lourmarin, climb the great spiral state staircase and find the chimneypiece whose caryatids have Amerindian faces, then step out onto the loggia and work out where the chapel stood before it was moved to make room for it
17.4 km from camp
About 3 h

The Colorado Provençal, the Bruoux Ochre Mines and Apt
225 XPWalk both marked footpaths at the Colorado Provençal and try to count the shades of ochre in the eroded cliffs — the source claims more than twenty — then find the fairy chimneys and the Dôa, the stream that cuts the old quarry floor
12.4 km from camp
About 3 h
Spring to autumn only
Walks from camp
Days 9–10 · 2 nights
111 km · 2 h 0 min from The Luberon


Base camp · 2 nights
Camping La Source
4.7
901 Google reviews
Editor's note
Two nights at the Gorges du Verdon. Hike the Sentier Blanc-Martel between the Chalet de la Maline and the Point Sublime, along the foot of walls up to 700m high. Drive the Route des Crêtes from La Palud-sur-Verdon, stopping at its viewpoints, and look down from the Pont de l'Artuby. From the Pont du Galetas, paddle a kayak or pedal boat into the lower gorge. Walk Moustiers-Sainte-Marie beneath the star hung on a chain between two mountains, and visit a faience workshop. Pedalos and boats go out on the Lac de Sainte-Croix from June to September, and Les Salles-sur-Verdon was rebuilt on its shore after the old village was drowned.

Moustiers-Sainte-Marie and the Lac de Sainte-Croix: The Star, the Faience and the Lake
225 XPStand in the village and follow the 135 m chain across the ravine to the star, then count its points: five, on a 115 cm star hung in 1957, not the sixteen of the Blacas legend — and it fell again in 1995 and was found at the bottom of the ravine before the village paid to have it regilded
8 km from camp
About 4 h

The Gorges du Verdon: The Sentier Blanc-Martel and the Route des Crêtes
400 XPWalk the Sentier Blanc-Martel from the Chalet de la Maline to the Point Sublime and find four things on the way: the étroit des Cavaliers where the walls close to under 300 m apart, the cave of the Baume-aux-Bœufs, the twin monolithic Tours de Trescaïre on the far bank, and, 250 m inside the last tunnel, the window cut in the rock that opens onto the Baume-aux-Pigeons
13.3 km from camp
About 10 h
Spring to autumn only
Walks from camp
14 challenges across 5 stops.
These start close to where this one finishes, after 10 nights, so you can keep going.