The Cotentin: A Long Weekend from Cherbourg

Editor's note

Two nights on the north-east tip of the Cotentin. Climb the 365 steps of the Gatteville lighthouse, at 75m the second tallest in France, for the view over the Val de Saire, then take the coast path to Barfleur, a fishing port of granite houses with its church by the sea. Then turn to the American landings of 6 June 1944: the Utah Beach museum, built in 1962 where the troops landed, holds a B-26 Marauder bomber and a Higgins landing craft. At Sainte-Mère-Église, a dummy paratrooper hangs from the church tower in memory of John Steele, and the Airborne Museum keeps a Waco glider and a C-47.

Editor's note

One night at Cap de Carteret, on the west coast facing the Channel Islands. Walk the Sentier des Douaniers round the cape from Carteret beach to the beach of the Vieille Église, past the lighthouse that has guided ships through the Passage de la Déroute since 1839 and the ruined church of Saint Germain the Scot, who brought Christianity to the Cotentin in the 5th century. Climb the Hatainville dunes beyond it. Down the coast at Portbail, cross the bridge of 13 arches built in 1873 and find the Gallo-Roman baptistery in the village.

Editor's note

One last night, out on La Hague, before the crossing home. The Sentier des Douaniers leads to the 128m cliffs of the Nez de Jobourg, in rock about two billion years old, and the Goury lighthouse of 1837 stands at the tip above the Raz Blanchard, one of the strongest currents in Europe. Port Racine is said to be the smallest port in France, and the garden at Vauville grows more than 1,000 southern-hemisphere species. In Cherbourg, go aboard Le Redoutable at the Cité de la Mer, then climb to the Fort du Roule and its Liberation Museum.