Baugé: King René's Hunting Lodge, the Apothecary and the Twisted Spires
Pays de la Loire, France
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King René's Huntsman
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200
XP
+100 France
= 300 total
1 day
Baugé: King René's Hunting Lodge, the Apothecary and the Twisted Spires
200 + 100 XP
Fulk Nerra moved the centre of the old district of Le Vieil-Baugé onto a spur above the valley of the Couasnon between 1015 and 1025, raised a motte with a castle and a church, and the town of Baugé grew up round them. Its castle, burnt more than once, was rebuilt from 1451 on the orders of King René of Anjou, a great huntsman, as his hunting lodge; its first floor now tells his life and how the Cross of Anjou — which he took into his arms after marrying Isabelle of Lorraine — came to merge with the Cross of Lorraine. The Hôtel-Dieu, founded in 1643 with money from Anne de Melun and occupied by nuns until 1988, keeps an apothecary reckoned one of the finest in France: more than six hundred containers on Louis XIII walnut and oak furniture, Italo-Moorish albarelli of the 16th century beside Nevers faience of the 17th, and some of the remedies still in them. Two kilometres away at Le Vieil-Baugé, the Romanesque church of Saint-Symphorien carries a twisted spire — rebuilt in 1856 and almost certainly twisted deliberately, like others in the Baugeois.
Required Activities
1
of 5
In the castle René had rebuilt from 1451 out of its burnt ruins — ten years of work — go up to the first floor and find, among the rooms on chivalry and courtly love, the one that traces the Cross of Anjou into the Cross of Lorraine
2
of 5
Along the six hundred-odd containers of the Hôtel-Dieu apothecary, pick out the 16th-century Italo-Moorish albarelli from the 17th-century Nevers faience, then find the remedies still sitting in them: stag's horn, crayfish eyes and powdered woodlice
3
of 5
At Saint-Symphorien in Le Vieil-Baugé, walk round the tower until you find the point of dévers — the height at which the spire stops twisting and the point above it runs straight again
4
of 5
Add at least one more of the twisted spires around Le Vieil-Baugé — Pontigné and Fougeré are the closest of the four — and judge whether its twist runs the same way as Saint-Symphorien's; Maine-et-Loire has the densest cluster of these spires in France
5
of 5
Go to the chapel of La Girouardière to see the Vraie Croix d'Anjou itself, the 13th and 14th-century reliquary cross a crusader brought back to Baugé and the original of the double-barred cross on every Anjou coat of arms
In the castle René had rebuilt from 1451 out of its burnt ruins — ten years of work — go up to the first floor and find, among the rooms on chivalry and courtly love, the one that traces the Cross of Anjou into the Cross of Lorraine
Along the six hundred-odd containers of the Hôtel-Dieu apothecary, pick out the 16th-century Italo-Moorish albarelli from the 17th-century Nevers faience, then find the remedies still sitting in them: stag's horn, crayfish eyes and powdered woodlice
At Saint-Symphorien in Le Vieil-Baugé, walk round the tower until you find the point of dévers — the height at which the spire stops twisting and the point above it runs straight again
Add at least one more of the twisted spires around Le Vieil-Baugé — Pontigné and Fougeré are the closest of the four — and judge whether its twist runs the same way as Saint-Symphorien's; Maine-et-Loire has the densest cluster of these spires in France
Go to the chapel of La Girouardière to see the Vraie Croix d'Anjou itself, the 13th and 14th-century reliquary cross a crusader brought back to Baugé and the original of the double-barred cross on every Anjou coat of arms
Before you go
The castle and the Hôtel-Dieu apothecary are ticketed sites with set opening seasons, and the apothecary is normally shown on a guided visit rather than left open. Check both before travelling, especially outside the school holidays.
The Vraie Croix d'Anjou is kept in the chapel of La Girouardière, part of a working hospice. Access depends on the chapel being open and on services; ask at the tourist office rather than turning up expecting a museum.
Le Vieil-Baugé is under 2 km south-west of Baugé, and the other twisted spires are each further again, so this challenge needs a vehicle.
Baugé is now a commune déléguée of Baugé-en-Anjou, so satnavs and signs may show the larger name.
Le Vieil-Baugé is 2 km from Baugé, Pontigné 5 km east of Baugé and Fougeré 10 km north; this challenge needs a vehicle.
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Challenge Location
XP Breakdown
Challenge XP
200 XP
France country bonus
+100 XP
Potential total
300 XP
Country bonus earned on completion of your first challenge in France.
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