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Bay of Morlaix: The Barnenez Cairn, the Bull Fort and Roscoff's Onion Johnnies

Brittany, France

easy
history

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Taureau Fort Voyager

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275

XP

+100 France

= 375 total

2 days

Bay of Morlaix: The Barnenez Cairn, the Bull Fort and Roscoff's Onion Johnnies

easy
history

275 + 100 XP

Above the Bay of Morlaix, the Cairn of Barnenez was piled up from some 4,000 tonnes of stone, its eastern half around 4700 BC: with the cairn III of Guennoc it is the oldest monument in Europe, and the largest megalithic mausoleum after Newgrange. Out in the bay the Château du Taureau stands on its rock, and at Roscoff a museum tells the story of the Johnnies who sold the town's pink onions door to door in Britain.

Required Activities

1

of 4

Walk round the Cairn of Barnenez, 75 m long and 28 m across at its widest, and count the entrances to its eleven passage graves, then look at the quarried west face, where a contractor's excavator cut open chambers A to D in the spring of 1955 and left the inside of the cairn on show

2

of 4

Take the boat from the plage du Kelenn at Carantec or the port du Diben at Plougasnou to the Château du Taureau, the fort built out at sea between 1690 and 1745 to Vauban's plan, and find the vaulted 'salle de discipline' where the Communard Blanqui, locked up here on 17 March 1871, wrote L'Éternité par les astres

3

of 4

Visit the Maison des Johnnies in Roscoff, on the onion sellers who from 1828 crossed to England each year between late July and Advent, and find what it holds on the wreck of the Hilda on 17 November 1905, which drowned many of them, then buy Roscoff pink onions, a variety brought from Portugal in the 16th century and now protected by its own appellation

4

of 4

Walk the Jardin exotique et botanique de Roscoff, 1.6 hectares holding about 3,350 plants from Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, South America and the Canaries, and climb the 18 m granite outcrop of Roc'h Hievec at its centre for the view over the bay

  • Walk round the Cairn of Barnenez, 75 m long and 28 m across at its widest, and count the entrances to its eleven passage graves, then look at the quarried west face, where a contractor's excavator cut open chambers A to D in the spring of 1955 and left the inside of the cairn on show

  • Take the boat from the plage du Kelenn at Carantec or the port du Diben at Plougasnou to the Château du Taureau, the fort built out at sea between 1690 and 1745 to Vauban's plan, and find the vaulted 'salle de discipline' where the Communard Blanqui, locked up here on 17 March 1871, wrote L'Éternité par les astres

  • Visit the Maison des Johnnies in Roscoff, on the onion sellers who from 1828 crossed to England each year between late July and Advent, and find what it holds on the wreck of the Hilda on 17 November 1905, which drowned many of them, then buy Roscoff pink onions, a variety brought from Portugal in the 16th century and now protected by its own appellation

  • Walk the Jardin exotique et botanique de Roscoff, 1.6 hectares holding about 3,350 plants from Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, South America and the Canaries, and climb the 18 m granite outcrop of Roc'h Hievec at its centre for the view over the bay

Before you go

The Château du Taureau can only be reached by boat, at any tide, and the crossing runs April to the end of September. Booking is required and departure times change every week with the tides, so fix the sailing before planning the rest of the day. Carantec is about 30 minutes out; the Plougasnou crossing is much longer.

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Challenge Location

XP Breakdown

Challenge XP

275 XP

France country bonus

+100 XP


Potential total

375 XP

Country bonus earned on completion of your first challenge in France.

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A long weekend in a loop from Roscoff: the cliffs of Pen-Hir and Camaret's Golden Tower, sardines at Douarnenez, the rocking stone of Huelgoat, then the Cairn of Barnenez and the Kreisker spire.

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