Ride the water-powered cliff railway between Lynton and Lynmouth

Walk the coast path into the Valley of Rocks and look for the goats

The Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway has joined the two towns since Easter Monday 1890, worked entirely by water: the top car fills its tank, becomes heavier and hauls the bottom car up as it descends. West of Lynton the Valley of Rocks is a dry valley of jagged tors above the sea with feral goats on the crags, and the two rivers meet at Lynmouth where the 1952 flood came down.

Lynton and Lynmouth: The Water-Powered Cliff Railway and the Valley of Rocks

Exmoor

From the South Hams to Exmoor: Dartmouth Castle and Burgh Island's sea tractor, the high moor and stone rows of Dartmoor, the surf beaches of north Devon, then Lynmouth's water-powered railway and Dunkery Beacon.

Devon: Dartmoor, the South Hams and Exmoor

Stargaze in Exmoor National Park, Europe's first International Dark Sky Reserve, designated in 2011

Climb Dunkery Beacon (519m), the highest point on Exmoor and in Somerset

Look for the semi-wild Exmoor ponies on the open moor

In 2011 Exmoor became Europe's first International Dark Sky Reserve. Dunkery Beacon, 519m, is the highest point on Exmoor and in Somerset, with views over the moor and the Bristol Channel, Bronze Age cairns on the hill and a summit cairn marking its gift to the National Trust. Semi-wild Exmoor ponies graze the open moor.

Exmoor: Dunkery Beacon and Europe's First Dark Sky Reserve

Drive Porlock Hill, or take the toll road if your vehicle is heavy

Stop at the top and look back down over the Bristol Channel

Carry on west along the A39 over Exmoor towards Lynmouth

The A39 runs from Bath right down the north coast of Somerset, Devon and Cornwall, and through Cornwall and North Devon it is called the Atlantic Highway. Porlock Hill, immediately west of Porlock, is the steepest A-road in the UK: a climb onto Exmoor with gradients approaching 1 in 4 and hairpin bends. A gentler toll road, never steeper than 1 in 14, runs alongside it and takes motorhomes; for anything heavy or long it is the sensible choice.

Porlock Hill: The Steepest A-Road in the UK

Stand under Verity at the end of the pier

Walk through the hand-cut tunnels to the tidal bathing pools

Climb Lantern Hill to St Nicholas's Chapel of 1361

Walk round the harbour and out to Hillsborough

Damien Hirst's statue Verity stands at the end of Ilfracombe's pier, a pregnant woman holding a sword aloft with her skin stripped away on one side; Hirst has lived and worked in the town. Above the harbour, St Nicholas's Chapel on Lantern Hill was built in 1361, has shown a light to ships since at least the 17th century, and is said to be Britain's oldest working lighthouse. In the 1820s Welsh miners hand-carved four tunnels through the cliff to reach a pair of tidal bathing pools, used for segregated bathing in keeping with Victorian morals.

Ilfracombe: Verity, the Tunnels Beaches and the Harbour

Cycle the Tarka Trail along the estuary from Barnstaple

Walk through the Pannier Market in Barnstaple

The Tarka Trail follows the journeys of Henry Williamson's otter in a figure of eight of 180 miles centred on Barnstaple, established in 1987; its traffic-free section runs on a disused railway along the Taw and the Torridge and forms part of the Devon Coast to Coast route from Ilfracombe to Plymouth. Braunton Burrows, at the mouth of the estuary, is the core of the North Devon UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.

Barnstaple and the Tarka Trail: Flat Miles Along Two Estuaries

Walk the length of the beach to Putsborough at low tide

Look for seals off the rocks at Morte Stone

Woolacombe's two miles of sand run between Morte Point and Baggy Point, backed by dunes and open to the Atlantic swell, and the size of that swell makes it one of the main surf beaches of north Devon. The South West Coast Path runs through the village and out round Morte Point, the slate spine at the northern end notorious for wrecks.

Woolacombe and Morte Point: North Devon's Surf Sands

Walk the coast from Ogmore-by-Sea to Nash Point on the Glamorgan Heritage Coast, over cliffs of Lias limestone rich in fossils

See Nash Point Lighthouse, built in 1831–1832 by James Walker, 37m tall and the last staffed lighthouse in Wales until it was automated in 1998, and look for choughs in the meadow

See St Donat's Castle, begun in the 12th century, bought by William Randolph Hearst in 1925 and home since 1962 to Atlantic College, the first United World College

The Glamorgan Heritage Coast runs along cliffs of Lias limestone, layered and full of fossils. Nash Point lighthouse, built by James Walker in 1831–32 and 37m tall, was the last staffed lighthouse in Wales until it was automated in 1998, and choughs feed in the meadow around it. Along the coast, St Donat's Castle, begun in the 12th century, has been lived in since at least the late 13th; William Randolph Hearst bought it in 1925, and since 1962 it has been home to Atlantic College, the first United World College.

Nash Point and St Donat's: The Glamorgan Heritage Coast

Walk down the cobbled street to the harbour

Find the sledges used for deliveries outside the cottages

Walk the Hobby Drive through the woods above the village

Clovelly is a privately owned village built into the wooded cliffs of north Devon, with a cobbled main street too steep for vehicles: goods went up and down by donkey and now go by sledge. The harbour behind its stone breakwater was completed by the squire George Cary in the late 16th century; the village has belonged to the Hamlyn family and their descendants since 1738, and Christine Hamlyn restored it between 1884 and 1936.