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Melle: The Silver Mines of the Frankish Kings and Saint-Hilaire

Nouvelle-Aquitaine, France

easy
history

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200

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+100 France

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1 day

Melle: The Silver Mines of the Frankish Kings and Saint-Hilaire

easy
history

200 + 100 XP

Under Melle and around it, silver-bearing lead was mined from 602 until at least 995, and the lead went to the Frankish kings — eight thousand pounds of it a year to Paris under Dagobert I, to roof the basilica of Saint-Denis. Some twenty mines on several levels left about thirty kilometres of galleries, 1 to 8 m high, and around 90,000 tonnes of lead; the ore ran at roughly a gram of silver to the kilo, and what was won from it was struck into coin at Melle from 768 to 1189. They are the oldest visitable mines in Europe, centuries older than those of Bohemia. Melle is also a stage on the Via Turonensis to Santiago de Compostela, and its Romanesque church of Saint-Hilaire has been on the UNESCO World Heritage list since 1998 as part of the Routes of Santiago.

Required Activities

1

of 4

Go down into the mines of the Frankish kings and find the marks of fire-setting on the rock, where vertical pyres were lit in the galleries to crack it, and the ventilation shafts the fires needed; coming out, stop at the metal hood sheltering the three reconstructed furnaces, then walk the Carolingian garden laid out on the mine site and pick out the forgotten vegetables in it — palm cabbage, dolichos, teasel, mandrake

2

of 4

On the north wall of Saint-Hilaire, find the horseman set in his niche in high relief — said to stand for Constantine's victory over the pagans — with the combat of the vices and the virtues on the outer roll of the arch below him, and look for the join: only the central part is the original carving, the rest is an 1872 restitution

3

of 4

Walk up to the ochre limestone church of Saint-Pierre, built in the early 12th century over a chapel of 950 that stood in a Carolingian graveyard, and look up at the square tower over the crossing — four narrow openings and a pyramidal roof dated 1466 — then find the sarcophagus of a bachelier out on the place Saint-Pierre

4

of 4

Complete the triade romane at Saint-Savinien, the oldest of the three and the only one built inside the feudal town: find the Christ ringed in a medallion between two lions on its gable-shaped tympanum, a shape common in Auvergne and rare in Poitou, then read along the corbels of the cornice above the door for the flat-carved stag, fish, bird and wrestling figures

  • Go down into the mines of the Frankish kings and find the marks of fire-setting on the rock, where vertical pyres were lit in the galleries to crack it, and the ventilation shafts the fires needed; coming out, stop at the metal hood sheltering the three reconstructed furnaces, then walk the Carolingian garden laid out on the mine site and pick out the forgotten vegetables in it — palm cabbage, dolichos, teasel, mandrake

  • On the north wall of Saint-Hilaire, find the horseman set in his niche in high relief — said to stand for Constantine's victory over the pagans — with the combat of the vices and the virtues on the outer roll of the arch below him, and look for the join: only the central part is the original carving, the rest is an 1872 restitution

  • Walk up to the ochre limestone church of Saint-Pierre, built in the early 12th century over a chapel of 950 that stood in a Carolingian graveyard, and look up at the square tower over the crossing — four narrow openings and a pyramidal roof dated 1466 — then find the sarcophagus of a bachelier out on the place Saint-Pierre

  • Complete the triade romane at Saint-Savinien, the oldest of the three and the only one built inside the feudal town: find the Christ ringed in a medallion between two lions on its gable-shaped tympanum, a shape common in Auvergne and rare in Poitou, then read along the corbels of the cornice above the door for the flat-carved stag, fish, bird and wrestling figures

Before you go

The mines of the Frankish kings, in the rue du Pré-du-Gué, are open from March to November and shut for the winter, so do not plan this one between December and February. Only a small part of the galleries is open and the roof comes down to about a metre in places, so it is a stooping walk, cool and damp whatever the weather above — take a fleece and sensible shoes. Archaeological experiments run on the site in summer, which is the best time to see the furnaces worked. Of the three Romanesque churches, only Saint-Hilaire is still in parish use, so check locally for access to Saint-Pierre and Saint-Savinien.

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Challenge Location

XP Breakdown

Challenge XP

200 XP

France country bonus

+100 XP


Potential total

300 XP

Country bonus earned on completion of your first challenge in France.

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