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Abondance: The Painted Cloister and the Monks' Cheese

Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, France

easy
food

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Abondance Cheesemaker

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200

XP

+100 France

= 300 total

1 day

Abondance: The Painted Cloister and the Monks' Cheese

easy
food

200 + 100 XP

The abbey of Abondance is famous for the cycle of wall paintings of the life of the Virgin in its 14th-century cloister, painted in the 1430s. The valley also gave its name to a cow and a cheese: Abondance, a semi-cooked pressed cheese of raw cow's milk made only in Haute-Savoie and protected by an appellation, won its fame through the monks of Abondance and Aulps, who bred the cattle and ran the cheese-making. Oral tradition in Haute-Savoie has the monks sending fifteen quintals of it — about a tonne and a half — to the conclave at Avignon, the one of 1378 that consecrated the antipope Clement VII.

Required Activities

1

of 4

Work round the 14th-century cloister picking out the scenes from the life of the Virgin painted in the 1430s, then find the gallery that has none — the north walk and its paintings were brought down by the collapse of the nave after a fire, and only two bays of that nave were ever rebuilt, finished in 1481

2

of 4

Buy Abondance cut from the wheel in the valley that named it and check it against the appellation: a semi-cooked pressed disc 7 to 8 cm high with a visibly concave rim, cut from a meule of 6 to 12 kg, and tasting of hazelnut

3

of 4

Pick the Abondance cows out of the valley herds, which also run montbéliarde and tarine: a dark mahogany-red coat with white head, belly and legs, and the red rings round the eyes that work as sunglasses against high-altitude glare

4

of 4

In the abbey church next door, name the four Fathers of the Church and the four Evangelists on the vaults painted between 1839 and 1845, find the short wooden gallery — 7 m long and barely 1.3 m deep — hung in the south transept, and on the way out identify the three figures in the stained glass over the door: Jean d'Abondance, the blessed Ponce de Sixt and François de Sales, who reformed this abbey in the early 17th century

  • Work round the 14th-century cloister picking out the scenes from the life of the Virgin painted in the 1430s, then find the gallery that has none — the north walk and its paintings were brought down by the collapse of the nave after a fire, and only two bays of that nave were ever rebuilt, finished in 1481

  • Buy Abondance cut from the wheel in the valley that named it and check it against the appellation: a semi-cooked pressed disc 7 to 8 cm high with a visibly concave rim, cut from a meule of 6 to 12 kg, and tasting of hazelnut

  • Pick the Abondance cows out of the valley herds, which also run montbéliarde and tarine: a dark mahogany-red coat with white head, belly and legs, and the red rings round the eyes that work as sunglasses against high-altitude glare

  • In the abbey church next door, name the four Fathers of the Church and the four Evangelists on the vaults painted between 1839 and 1845, find the short wooden gallery — 7 m long and barely 1.3 m deep — hung in the south transept, and on the way out identify the three figures in the stained glass over the door: Jean d'Abondance, the blessed Ponce de Sixt and François de Sales, who reformed this abbey in the early 17th century

Before you go

Abondance eats best from June to December, after the summer in the high pastures; the cows are out on the alpage from early summer to autumn, so that is also when you will see the herds.

The painted cloister takes an annual closure from 31 October to 20 December, so a November or early-December visit gets the valley and the cheese but not the paintings. It opens 9.30am to 12.30pm and 2pm to 6pm daily in July and August, 9.30am to noon and 2pm to 6pm daily in September, and in October only Monday to Friday from 2pm to 5pm — a late-October weekend will not get you in either. For the rest of the winter and spring check the day's hours with the abbey on 04 50 81 60 54 before driving up the valley.

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About Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes

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Challenge Location

XP Breakdown

Challenge XP

200 XP

France country bonus

+100 XP


Potential total

300 XP

Country bonus earned on completion of your first challenge in France.

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