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Les Mées, Ganagobie and Lurs: The Penitents, the Monks' Mosaic and the Bishops' Walk

Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, France

easy
cultural

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Ganagobie Mosaic Seeker

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225

XP

+100 France

= 325 total

1 day

Les Mées, Ganagobie and Lurs: The Penitents, the Monks' Mosaic and the Bishops' Walk

easy
cultural

225 + 100 XP

Beside the Durance at Les Mees, the Rochers des Mees, the Penitents, are cliffs of cemented pebbles eroded into cones that legend says are monks turned to stone. On the plateau of Ganagobie six kilometres south-west, a Benedictine community that moved here from Hautecombe in 1992 keeps a 12th-century church whose mosaic floor of about 1124 covers 72 square metres and has no equal in France, and on the next hilltop Lurs, the summer seat of the bishops of Sisteron, runs its Promenade des Eveques up past fifteen oratories to the chapel of Notre-Dame-de-Vie of 1552.

Required Activities

1

of 5

Walk the foot of the Penitents and get close enough to see what they are made of: rounded river pebbles cemented into conglomerate, eroded into the cones that gave the place its name because they look like a line of figures in monks' habits

2

of 5

On the mosaic floor at Ganagobie, made from only three stones, red sandstone, white marble and black limestone, find the Saint George killing the dragon in the south arm, the bull with a human head, the harpy and the stag in their medallions, and the creature that is half ox and half elephant, then look at where the missing centre used to be

3

of 5

Walk the Promenade des Eveques up the village hill past all fifteen oratories to the chapel of Notre-Dame-de-Vie at the top, then back down to the clock tower of 1499, which holds the oldest bell in the region, and the ruins of the bishops' palace

4

of 5

Get the whole story straight before you look: the tale is that Count Raimbaud brought seven Saracen women back from crusade, monks from the Montagne de Lure were made to escort them to the Durance with their hoods pulled down, the devil raised a wind, the hoods blew back and thunder turned the line of monks to stone. The story says one wooden cross round a monk's neck survived and is still up there, so see whether you can find what people point to

5

of 5

From the edge of the Ganagobie plateau, 350 m above the bed of the Durance, pick out the line of the Roman via Domitia that runs along it, and at dusk back at Les Mees listen for the eagle owls that nest in the conglomerate cliffs

  • Walk the foot of the Penitents and get close enough to see what they are made of: rounded river pebbles cemented into conglomerate, eroded into the cones that gave the place its name because they look like a line of figures in monks' habits

  • On the mosaic floor at Ganagobie, made from only three stones, red sandstone, white marble and black limestone, find the Saint George killing the dragon in the south arm, the bull with a human head, the harpy and the stag in their medallions, and the creature that is half ox and half elephant, then look at where the missing centre used to be

  • Walk the Promenade des Eveques up the village hill past all fifteen oratories to the chapel of Notre-Dame-de-Vie at the top, then back down to the clock tower of 1499, which holds the oldest bell in the region, and the ruins of the bishops' palace

  • Get the whole story straight before you look: the tale is that Count Raimbaud brought seven Saracen women back from crusade, monks from the Montagne de Lure were made to escort them to the Durance with their hoods pulled down, the devil raised a wind, the hoods blew back and thunder turned the line of monks to stone. The story says one wooden cross round a monk's neck survived and is still up there, so see whether you can find what people point to

  • From the edge of the Ganagobie plateau, 350 m above the bed of the Durance, pick out the line of the Roman via Domitia that runs along it, and at dusk back at Les Mees listen for the eagle owls that nest in the conglomerate cliffs

Before you go

One of the Penitents collapsed on 2 December 2019 after heavy weather: stay on marked paths and off the scree at the foot of the cliffs, especially after rain. Ganagobie is a working Benedictine abbey, not a museum: the church and its mosaics open to visitors for limited hours, the monastery itself is closed, and silence is expected. The monks' shop sells the balms and cosmetics they make, including the baume du pelerin.

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Challenge Location

XP Breakdown

Challenge XP

225 XP

France country bonus

+100 XP


Potential total

325 XP

Country bonus earned on completion of your first challenge in France.

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