Learn to spot an indiano house: the palm in the garden is the giveaway

Find the school, the fountain or the cemetery an indiano also paid for in the same village

Work out where the money came from — Cuba, Mexico, Argentina — and what it cost to get it

Go into one that is open as a museum or a hotel and look at what was brought back

Work out why so many are on this particular stretch of coast and not inland

From the 19th century into the 20th, people left the Asturian and Cantabrian coast in enormous numbers for Cuba, Mexico and Argentina, and a proportion came back rich. What they built is unmistakable: brightly painted mansions with galleries and towers, set in gardens planted with imported palms — a palm in the garden is the reliable sign — often alongside a school or a fountain they also paid for, because returning as a benefactor was part of the point. Whole villages along this coast are shaped by them.

The Cantabrian Indiano Houses

Go into El Pindal and find the mammoth among the thirteen bison and eight horses

Look for the red dots, lines and club-shaped signs painted beside the animals

Walk out across the Rasa de Pimiango, the raised wave-cut platform above the cave, to the cliff edge

El Pindal opens in the sea cliffs near Pimiango, at the far eastern end of Asturias, and its paintings have been known since 1908. Most are on the right-hand panels: thirteen bison, eight horses, a hind, a stag and a mammoth, with red dots, lines and club-shaped signs among them. The cave has been protected since 1924 and part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Altamira and the Palaeolithic cave art of northern Spain since 2008. Only the eastern half is open to visitors; access to the western half is restricted.

El Pindal: A Mammoth on the Sea Cliffs of Asturias

Go in on the mine train through the old gallery, which is the only way in

Find the helictites — eccentric stalactites that grow sideways instead of down

Find the draperies, translucent sheets of calcite hanging like flags from the roof

Work out how it was found: miners cutting for zinc and lead broke into a cavity that blew air at them, which is what soplao means

Work out the scale of what is behind the lit section: about twenty kilometres of cave, of which four are open

El Soplao was cut into by accident during zinc and lead mining, and soplao was the miners' word for a karst cavity that blew a strong draught when they broke into it. It runs to about twenty kilometres of which four are open, and what makes it exceptional is the formations: helictites — eccentric stalactites that grow sideways and defy gravity — and translucent draperies hanging from the roof. You go in on a mine train, through a working gallery, into a cave the people who found it had no idea was there.

El Soplao: The Cave the Miners Found by Accident

Drive the N-621 through all twenty-two kilometres of it and work out that you cannot see the tops of the walls from the road

Stop and look up at limestone faces over 600 metres high

Work out its strategic point: this is the only corridor from the Cantabrian coast into Liébana

Look for vultures and eagles on the updraughts, and chamois on the rock — 6,350 hectares of the gorge is a special protection area for birds

Find out who used this road in the 19th century: British travellers, climbers and hunters on their way to the Picos

The Deva has cut twenty-two kilometres of gorge through the Ándara massif between Panes and Cillorigo de Liébana, which makes it the longest defile in Spain, with near-vertical limestone walls some of them over 600 metres high — so high that from the road you cannot see the top. It is the only way in to Liébana from the Cantabrian coast, which is why the narrow N-621 runs through it. In the 19th century it was the route British travellers, mountaineers and hunters took to get at the Picos de Europa.

La Hermida: The Longest Gorge in Spain

Drive the narrow mountain road into Tresviso, cut into the Picos de Europa cliff face — one of the most remote villages in mainland Spain

Find the natural limestone caves above the village where Picón Bejes-Tresviso is aged for two to four months at 5–10°C

Taste Picón directly from a producer in Tresviso — a blend of cow's, sheep's and goat's milk unique among Spain's blue cheeses

Continue to Bejes, the cheese's other namesake village, on the descent back toward the coast

Picón Bejes-Tresviso is a blue cheese with protected designation since 1994, cured in natural caves in the Picos de Europa exactly as Cabrales in Asturias and Valdeón in León are cured — the same mountain, three names, three appellations. The paste is white with blue-green veining from Penicillium growing in the cave air. Tresviso itself has around fifty inhabitants, and the oddity is that although it is in Cantabria there is no road to it from Cantabria: the only road in comes from Asturias, and reaching the rest of your own region by car means about forty kilometres.

Tresviso: The Cave-Aged Blue Cheese of the Picos

Go into El Capricho, built 1883–85, and work out how much of the later Gaudí is already in it

Find the sunflower tiles running round the outside and work out why they are there

Walk up to the Sobrellano palace and pantheon by Joan Martorell

Find the former Pontifical University by Domènech i Montaner on the hill

Work out how a village this size acquired three major Catalan architects, and where the money came from

Antonio López y López, first Marquis of Comillas, made a fortune in Cuba and brought Catalan architects home to his village on the Cantabrian coast. The result is extraordinary for a place this size: Gaudí's El Capricho of 1883–85, one of his earliest works and one of only three he built outside Catalonia; the Sobrellano palace and pantheon by Joan Martorell; and the former Pontifical University by Lluís Domènech i Montaner. It is effectively a Catalan Modernisme colony dropped into a Cantabrian fishing village.

Comillas: A Catalan Modernisme Colony in Cantabria

Stand where the four valleys meet and work out why Potes is where it is

Work out the microclimate: a basin ringed by the Picos, warm enough for vines and olives

Taste orujo, distilled from grape marc, and come in November for the festival built round it

Climb the Torre del Infantado in the middle of the town

Drive or walk up to Fuente Dé and take the cable car for the view back down over the whole basin

Potes sits where four valleys meet in the middle of the Liébana, ringed by the Picos de Europa on three sides, reached from the coast only through the twenty-two-kilometre La Hermida gorge. That isolation gives it a microclimate warm enough to grow vines and olives inside a mountain basin. The town is stone bridges, a medieval tower and a market that still works, and the local spirit is orujo, distilled from grape marc, with a festival devoted to it in November.

Potes and the Liébana

Find the Jurassic dinosaur footprints on the rocks of the beach at low tide

Watch the small boats come in to the harbour and its fish market

Walk up through the San Miguel and San Roque quarters and work out where Charles V is supposed to have landed

Walk out to the Tazones lighthouse on the headland

Tazones is a fishing village of about 250 people between two headlands on the coast of Villaviciosa, its houses stepped up the slope from the harbour, and it has been one of the Most Beautiful Villages in Spain since 2019. It was once a whaling port. It is believed to be where the young Charles I — later the Emperor Charles V — first set foot in Spain, arriving from Flanders in 1517, and the landing is commemorated every year at the fiestas of San Roque. On the rocky shore of its beach are Jurassic dinosaur footprints, part of the Costa de los Dinosaurios.

Tazones: The Fishing Village Where Charles V First Landed

Go into Tito Bustillo and find the main panel of horses and deer

Work out how it was found: young cavers in 1968, and who the cave is named after

Walk the seafront and find the indiano houses built with American money

Be at the bridge in August for the finish of the Descenso del Sella

Find the dinosaur footprints on the rocks along this coast, which are signposted from the town

A group of young cavers found the painted gallery at Tito Bustillo in 1968 and named it after one of their number who died on a later expedition. It holds Palaeolithic painting of the first rank — a main panel of horses and deer in red and black, and a separate chamber of vulval engravings — and it is part of the Altamira World Heritage listing. The town sits where the Sella reaches the sea, so it is also the finish of the Descenso del Sella every August, and it has a seafront of indiano mansions built with money from the Americas.